








🔥 Seal the heat, save the vibe! 🔥
The Rutland Wood Stove Gasket Replacement Kit features a 5/16" graphite-impregnated rope gasket, 7 feet in length, paired with a 1.3oz tube of EZ-Spread gasket cement. Designed for easy installation and superior durability, it restores your stove or fireplace’s efficiency by providing a tight, long-lasting seal that resists creosote and soot buildup. Ideal for wood, pellet, and coal stoves, this kit is a trusted upgrade for professionals and home heating enthusiasts alike.









| ASIN | B000UFR7T2 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #83,246 in Home & Kitchen ( See Top 100 in Home & Kitchen ) #20 in Fireplace Replacement Parts |
| Date First Available | September 9, 2006 |
| Department | Gasket Forming Compounds |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 5.6 ounces |
| Item model number | 95A-6 |
| Manufacturer | Rutland Products |
| Product Dimensions | 2.5 x 7.75 x 10.5 inches |
T**E
Excellent quality and long lasting gaskets
I have used Rutland brand gaskets on Wood stoves, Pellet Stoves and Big Green Egg cookers and I do not bother with other brands. Great price for the superior quality. The key to using any of the Rutland gaskets is to make sure you do not pull the gasket tight as you are installing it in the groove. The way these are made with the weave, you want to push the gasket back from where you're feeding it from. Kind of like bunching it in on itself. That way when you are done installing it, the door has a firm feel to it when latching it. You're not bunching it real tight and you will see when installing it that the gasket keeps its diameter of the size indicated on the package. This style of round 3/8" gasket worked perfect for my Harman Pellet stove door. I did not have any issues with the high temp silicone like some other users have mentioned. I usually put about a 1/4" bead of this all along the groove on wood or pellet stove doors. You want to make sure the surface is down to bare metal. This is easily done with a drill motor and small wire wheel.
T**S
perfect for my landmann smoker
The gasket tape was just the right material for my landmann smoker. I bought three packs but used two packs because I also gasketed the water tray door and the chip door. The 5/8" X 1/8" size was exactly what I wanted. However I did not use the cement tube that came with the tape because previous reviews said they were not good. I bought and used the permatex gasket adhesive instead. Installation was so easy. No mess at all and the curing time for the adhesive of one hour was more than enough to complete my work without any hurrying at all. After two days, I fired it for smoking brined mackerel for 3 hours today. There was no leak at all in the main smoker compartment. A little leak came out of the water tray and chip tray compartments but I think I can fix that too by added some more permatex. Smoked mackerel came out just right and I was real happy with it. Glad I picked the tape type instead of the rope because it laid flat along the edges of the landmann smoker for a perfect fit. Would gladly recommend the product. Time will tell though how long it will last but right now it looked good. p.s. Word of advise though. Should mention that I have to change the 2 magnetic door latches on my Landmann 3895 smoker with mechanical latches otherwise adding 1/8" thick gaskets around the door edges will not work because the magnetic latches will not catch, regardless of what brand of gasket you use. Once you've made the upgrade like I did, then and only then will gasketing work. Sorry but I have to mention this.
J**B
Requires Time and Patience to Apply
I used this kit to repair a 7 year old Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 door seal. The instructions call for ensuring that the channel in which the rope seal goes is down to bare metal. Not sure why that should be necessary, as the original door had paint in the channel. Nonetheless I used a wire wheel on a drill to remove all debris from the channel and then I used 60 grit hand sandpaper to remove a bit of the paint. Mind you, this is wood stove paint on a very irregular cast iron surface - you are not getting down to bare metal everywhere unless you break out the sand blaster. I was able to get about 10% or more of the channel down to bare metal using hand sanding. The sealant supplied is not thick like silicone - it is equivalent to a thin artist paint you might buy in a tube. It is somewhat difficult to apply, as you have to squeeze the tube as you go. In any event, after filling the channel, I used my finger to smooth the adhesive so that it filled the channel evenly, without any excess protruding. I did wet the rope prior to applying it to the door, but I'm not sure if that made any difference. Adding the rope was simple, starting midway up the channel on the hinge side. Type A sorts will dislike the joint, as the ends of the rope fray immediately upon cutting. The joint, however, came out acceptable. I advise not drawing the rope tight as you insert it in the channel. Instead, make sure that the rope is loose as you finger-press it into the channel. If not, you run the risk of cutting it short and having the rope pull out in the corners. Make sure that you take your time in the corners, as the rope tends to want to pull out toward the middle. After complete installation, I finger pressed all the way around. I then cleaned up any excess - there was not much excess to clean up, but I can imagine it would be a mess if you overfilled the channel. I then closed the door to ensure it would close and fit well. It did. I then opened the door and gave it an hour, per instructions. I then closed the door. I had started a fire 20 minutes earlier, with the door open (MUST WATCH STOVE FOR SAFETY!!!) so that it would be hot. I closed the door. Problem. Some small amount of adhesive had gotten on the 'clean' side of the rope and had stuck to the stove. Darn. My fault. The rope seal pulled off a little in that one area. I opened the door, let cool, cleaned the channel in the affected area, reapplied glue, set by hand, shut door, open, let cure. Result is good. Seal is in place and is holding and is sealing. I gave this kit 4 stars because the directions could have been slightly more detailed. I will update this if the seal does not last at least a couple of years. For those having problems, I'd say that preparation is critical for this product - if the channel is not very clean with at least some bare metal, this may fail. Also, the sealant needs to penetrate the rope - wet it, as suggested, and use finger pressure to gently push the rope in all the way around after installation.
P**G
Fixed my problem
I used this to repair a wood stove door seal. Take your time and make sure to have a clean surface and this kit will fix your problem to. I have use this 1 entire winter now and no issues at all. No leaks. Fixed my problem, with a good quality product, and was a good price. I will buy again.
M**T
Good quality glue that doesn’t run.
L**D
Easy to fit (just make sure you wear gloves and knead the adhesive tube for 2 minutes to smooth out the lumps and push out the air bubbles) and looks better than the old white asbestos type rope
C**H
Worked like a charm. Some say the glue doesn't hold,but if you apply the glue and let it set for 15 minutes before putting the rope in and THEN leave it alone to dry overnight you will be golden. Good quality gasket too.
M**N
Better than the white fiberglass rope, and the adhesive actually works unlike the waterglass that comes with the other. It being black, it blends in with the stove as well so it's not noticed
R**R
pour réparer la vitre du poêle a combustion
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