AISIN CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

Aisin is worth the extra $. I bought and installed the cheaper one, squeaked And nothing but problems.

The media could not be loaded. Direct replacement for a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. It was delivered today and within an hour had the old one out and this one in. Bled the system and now my clutch pedal feels brand new.

Do not buy master cylinders from the parts store. They are complete junk and will fail. They're around the same price as AISIN but are not the same quality. Do yourself a favor and just buy once so you don't have the headache of replacing it every month and trying to get the parts store to honor the so-called warranty.

04 Tacoma only took 30 minutes to install, works hope it last as long as the original.

Just like OEM = easy install.

I bought this and the Aisin CRT-014 slave cylinder to replace the original parts on my 1996 Toyota T100. They fit perfectly and they work well. I re-used the old hydraulic line. I just drained the fluid, removed and replaced the parts, refilled with DOT3 brake fluid, and bled the line. When reconnecting the hydraulic line, I made sure the nuts went into the receiving threads nicely, without any excessive force applied. Bleeding the line was also fairly easy, it was a one person job and it took about 5 minutes, without any special tool but a clear hose (i got this at a home improvement store). This is how I did the bleeding: connect a 2 foot long clear hose to the bleed nipple (you might want to wrap some metal hook up wire around the hose near the nipple and pull it snugly toward the nipple; the hose has a tendency to slip out); make sure the hose form a U shape (it goes up an inch or so higher than the body of the slave cylinder before goes down into your fluid collection container. Don't let its other end touch the used fluid in the container). Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is always filled with fresh brake fluid from a brand new, just opened container. As you loosen the bleed nipple, gravity will drain the fluid from the slave cylinder (make sure the pedal is in the up position, the inactive position. A pedal in the down position blocks the fluid from the reservoir getting into the master cylinder). If the fluid does not drain right away, you may have to pump the pedal a few strokes, leaving it in the up position. After 10 or 20 seconds, clear fluid without air bubble appears at the output of the nipple. When this happens, the line has been purged of air. At that point, just tighten the bleed nipple; the pedal should now feel firm and operational. That is all to it! There is no need for a second person pumping the pedal, no need for a special tool like a vaccuum pump.The back pressure of the fluid in the hose section immediately outside of the nipple keeps the air not coming back into the slave cylinder. Years ago, when doing a brake line air bleeding, I needed help from either my wife or kids to do the brake/clutch pedal pumping with a lot of yelling (by me) and whining (by kids); nowadays, it is a one man task.

Fixed my busted master cylinder issue and was able to drive my truck again

Fits well