King Innovation 95110 3-Port Aluminum Copper (10-Pack) Wire Connector, Purple

I'm totally blind. I got these for use in my house being the house is all the old wiring from the 70's. Ware these come in handy is when swapping out the old electrical outlets with new ones. This away I don't need to try to find the Kolar ones and can use standard ones. This allows for a person to be able to add a copper pig tail and still have the old stile wiring. For each type of plug, had to use 3 of these. 1 for white wire, 1 for black and 1 for ground. This away it is up to code and is done correctly and stuff doesn't just fall out of the plugs being they are now tight at least for now.

There are 4 options for aluminum to copper remediation in older homes1) Completely rewire the house ($$$ and destruction)2) Purple wire nuts (similar price to these, and reports of them melting - although I suspect many are installed incorrectly in those cases)3) Copp-alum (Need extremely expensive tools and also expensive)4) Alumiconn (these, more fool proof than wire nuts)Given the limited options homeowners have, what can you do. These are supposed to be a lifetime fix and they are easy albeit tedious to install. Get the torque screwdriver and torque to appropriate specs, 15in lb for all copper, 10in lb for 12 gauge aluminum 15 for 10 gauge.I have gripes with these but what can you do, like I said there’s no other realistic option for most homeowners- These are stupidly expensive for what they are (patent maybe?)- The screws pretty much strip out at 15 in lb, they are also flat head which is just more annoying to get the bit in.These can be DIY’d easily, they are pretty fool proof by design so they’re hard to mess up. You need at least 3 per device, so packing them tends to be the hardest part sometimes.

If you’re reading this, I’m pretty sure you are a handyman doing your own home. In our resort. A lot of the homes were built with aluminum wiring. Apparently if you sell, some home inspectors are insisting on this modification. Hiring someone to do it costs $3000 plus the cost of materials, so I thought I’d do this at my leisure.These items are a little bulky, and if you don’t have the large capacity boxes, I suspect they won’t fit. A typical receptacle will require 3 of the three joint terminals. If a particular box has an extra wire coming in, then you need more of these terminal boxes. Luckly for me, the home was built with the larger boxes. If you have the smaller metal boxes which are typically nailed to the stud, you have a couple options. You might be able to reach inside the box with a side cutter, grip the nail and pry it out (repeating this several times to remove the nail). Another option is to use an oscillating saw with a blade capable of cutting nails and cut between the stud and box. No danger of cutting electrical wires. It’s easy to install replacement boxes, and they come in different capacities, so be sure to buy the large one. Box extenders are another option, but they would probably look a little hooky, unless used in the garage.As far as the quality of these items, they have been good. The instructions are specifying 10 in-lbs torque on the aluminum wire and 15 in-lbs for the copper. I bought a special torque wrench screwdriver for this. I’d recommend you wear a glove on the hand you are holding this wire connector, in case you slip with the screwdriver, as you have to push pretty hard to be sure the screwdriver stays engaged.

These connectors work great for AU to CU connections. I have used hundreds of these over the last 15 years, with not a single issue. I gave it 4 stars due to the incessant price increases. When I first purchased these they were $2.30 each. Now nearing $6 each! They are what you need, but the price is getting ridiculous. Some commenters stating that 3 are needed per plug/switch, but a green wire nut with nolox on the ground works, as no current should be flowing to ground. And if it does, that should be for very short periods to be corrected. With no current flow, there is no carbon build up or arching that is at the root of AU to CU resistance/heat issues. Some may disagree. But you do need one for the hot and one for the neutral. Also in older smaller junction boxes, these are larger than wirenut connectors, so you need all the room you can get. Maybe a little competition could get the price in check. Its not rocket science, just a little buss bar with nolox in a cool plastic insulator.

I have an older home that unfortunately has aluminum wiring. I hate the purple wire nuts and I'm not spending the money to set myself to install bonding rings. Enter these GEMS, they are a little pricey , but compared to the tools needed for bonding rings, they will be cheaper in the long run. They will also allow future expansion if needed.

Excellent product for converting / Extending Aluminum wire to Copper, already have no-ox in the connector so you will not need to buy.

Our 70s built house has aluminum wiring and I wanted to immediately remedy the situation. These work great although they do take a little bit of space in the box. I ended up replacing most of the old fiberglass boxes with the largest carlon old work boxes (that screw to the stud from the inside). Make sure you torque these properly!! They are expensive for what they are (mini bus-bars in a plastic case), but it does feel good knowing all my wiring now terminates at the receptacle/switch/light with copper.

Pretty straight forward. They're filled with dielectric grease on each leg. They feel like they're well machined when installing them, using the set screwz.This was used in an outdoor A/C disconnect with surge device installed.