M15 x 1.5MM Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit Oil Pan Screws Rethread Tool

I used this kit to create a permanent solution for my leaking drain plug, here's what I did.Vehicle 2000 Acura 3.2tlI had a leaking drain plug after a visit to the jiffy lube. At first I was mad at them but after research it may not have been their fault. These drain pans are weak on this engine and it seems like its just a matter of time. I needed the fix the issue so I used an oversize plug. That worked until it didn't and the leak began again after a few oil changes. This time I bought one of those piggyback drain plugs. I used JB weld and some rtv to stop the leak and prevent the insert from coming loose. It worked for a while again but the problem was it kept coming loose! Every time I removed the piggyback it would move a little until the leak returned. I tried tightening again but the threads were too far gone. I kicked myself for not using red loctite when I did the initial install. That was my other idea but I thought the JB weld/RTV combo would be better, I was wrong. I wasn't going to make the same mistake again.The oversize drain plug was too small at this point and the threads would not grip. I bought this kit and decided to make my own piggypack drain plug. I chucked it up in my lathe and drilled out the center. I used a 1/8 npt thread tap in the hole and picked up a plug from the hardware store that fit it. I used the kit as described except I used red loctite. So far I have no leaks but I haven't tried to remove the piggyback yet. The red loctite should hold the plug in and allow me to remove the piggyback plug without the whole plug moving. Time will tell if this solution is the end but if not I will have to do a Helicoil or Timesert. If I was to do it over again, I would have used red Loctite on the original piggyback and never used the first oversized plug, I think that would have solved the problem. Instead, I went with JB weld and RTV which only lasted a little while.I hope this helps someone else in my situation. If you use the piggyback with red loctite from the start you should be ok. The loctite seals the threads and keeps them from moving. Loctite 271 is very strong so you shouldn't have an issue. If you don't use threadlock on the piggyback you risk it coming loose and the leak returning. Loctite 272 is thicker and may be a better option but I didn't have any do I wasn't able to try it. Good luck in treating your leaking drain plug!

First of all, this kit is genius, and amazing. So I read some reviews that made me a little sceptical about my purchase but I know what they might have done wrong. One reviewer mentioned there's not enough room so they took their car to a shop to fix it. Here's what I did:1. Drained the oil with the engine cold. (Trust me it's better this way so you don't accidentally burn yourself on the exhaust.)2. I used my Milwaukee 3/8 drive ratchet with an 11mm 12 point socket and the tap fires in perfectly. (you can use any brand ratchet, but this is what I own...) I imagine it would be difficult to swing an actual ratchet in that little space so a power ratchet helped me with that.3. Used an antenna style magnet to get out any shavings.4. Used a quart of cheap oil to run through the top of the engine down into the drain pan.5. Tightened the new bolt on to snug. I did not use any specific amount of torque but very snug. So far it's not leaking.It should be noted to buy kitty litter or oil dry first because it will make a mess. Although the majority of the oil went in the drain pan, it'll still continue to drip while you're using this kit.I hope this kit helps you as much as it did me!!

rethreading went smoothly(confirmed with an endoscope camera), but the washer couldn't stop the leak, I changed to m14 nissan washer(modified), still no success, eventually I got it done with a cheap O ring from hardware store.My vehicle is honda pilot 2006, m15 bolt plus o ring, the torque was 20 ft/lbs.

The tap works as advertised. Have used all plugs and always seals the pan

the tool works very well the bolts are good, only bad side is that the washers are very skinny in diameter and they do not hold up as well as a traditional washer that has more surface area.

This oil pan bolt works on 90% cars that's on the road very easy to use take the tap rethread screw inserted it to the stripped oil pan hole in then turn till the hole is threaded then take the new BOLT and CRUSH WASHER screw it in VERY slowly so that the new threads will start very easily then tight until flushed to the oil pan... Yes I have change the oil 3 times same bolt with NO oil leaks.. Just remember to take a little time and learn how to change your own oil you will save yourself a lot time and money all of the cars I work the oil pan was way over tightening or cross thread from overrated fast oil shop.

Not a quality fix.

I read all the reviews about this kit. I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey that supposedly needed a new oil pan. Plug was stripping the threads on the oil pan and leaking a bit of oil. I found this and decided to try it. The included tap worked great. Once tapped, I poured oil in to clean out any shavings and there were a lot that came out. As the oil was draining I put my finger over the hole, then removed it and that technique would push out shavings so I did that a few times until there weren't any more coming out. Even used a few Q-tips after that but it was clean. The aluminum crush washers that come on the bolts are a little thin but I decided to go ahead and use it anyway. Many reviewers advised getting different crush washers. I noticed before installing that the crush washers were a little rough on one side and that may cause a leak. I had some fine sandpaper nearby so I sanded the rough side until smooth, put it on, tightened it up, put in the new oil, and let the van run for about 15 minutes. Came out to do my final check underneath and there was no oil at all coming out from the bolt/washer. Very pleased with this kit since it saved me from replacing the oil pan.