Denso234-9005 Oxygen Sensor

Had a code 1166, purchased a $50 sensor to save $. what a mistake. As soon as I started crv and checked the cel lite up with codes 1163,1164...( 4 codes ). cleared code, started again, immediate codes. Put old sensor in and eventually the 1166 code pops up, but only the 1166 code. Bought this denso for alot more$$, but installed and no more codes, crv works great, no cel.Don't be stupid and try to save $$, this crv denso sensor is ridiculous expensive, even compared to other denso oxy sensors. Not sure why crv's sensors cost so much more in the denso company.Here is what I found interesting. This denso sensor is ASSEMBLED IN THE USA, USING FOREIGN PARTS.THIS IS PROBABLY WHY ITS SO EXPENSIVE. Anyway, the model stamp on 23 year old sensor was ez to read. The new sensor stamp showing its assembled here by denso and product code on new sensor is almost impossible to read, it took my daughter and a magnifying glass to see denso and the product #. And my daughter has awesome vision even reading all the super fine print on everything. scary that they hide the fact its a denso, and assembled in the USA. PLEASE, save yourself the time and effort, and spend the extra to fix your problem. Only complaint i have is threads weren't coated with anti seize. probably won't matter because it will last another 23 years anyway.

The Check Engine Light on my my Honda Civic Hybrid 2005 1.3L came on while driving one day. So I took my car to autoZone and had the code read (did not feel like paying dearlership 80 bucks just to read a code). It was a P0135 code which means A/F Sensor 1 Heater System Malfunction. The probable causes were as generic as they come so I decide that just replacing the sensor made most sense. I have never changed a sensor before and did not have a clue on what needed to be done so I went to youtube and type "change oxygen sensor" and although not specific to my car I got the idea , still I figured if the dealership charges me about 100 bucks more to change the sensor I'll do it at the dearlership for peace of mind. I called the dealership and the price they quoted to replace the sensor was $500.00. Okay thats almost 400 bucks more than the part costs on Amazon so I am going to do this myself. If I am successful I keep about 400 bucks if I fail I wasted $120.00. I ordered the Denso 234-9005 A/F sensor and the TEKTON 4929 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch Oxygen Sensor Socket from Amazon and orderd Liquid Wrench (very important to get specially for an older car) from a local car parts store (since the overnight shipping on the liquid wrench was 5 times the cost of the product itself).The next day I got the part (Amazon was prompt as usual) and it looked about the same the cable was maybe an inch longer and the color of the wires and protective sleeve were different. I was very nervous but decided to see if the old sensor would even come loose. In the video I watched on youtude the gentleman has removed the heat shield to me it seemed like I did not need to so I sprayed the existing broken sensor with liquid wrench (5 stars..:) and waited about 5 minutes. I slid the socket mentioned above over the wire but it seems like the sensor and wire was taller that the socket so I bent he cable at the sensor head and was able to grip the sensor nut with almost no effort the sensor turned and I removed it. I compared the thread size etc and all looked good. The sensor I bought from Amazon came with an anti-seize compound which I applied to the thread of the new sensor and installed it. I drove the car around the block and the harsh rough sounding engine noise was gone. The car was driving smoothly as before but the Check Engine Light remained on. I decided to just drive it and see what happens. After about 10 miles the Check engine Light reset itself and its been off for about 100 miles now. My MPG is back to normal which is around 40MPG as opposed to the 29MPG I was getting with sensor broken. I will probably update this review if it stays that way after about 10K+. FWIW while doing my research I came accross Part # W0133-1600700-ND which seemed to be the correct fit for my car too but cost $270+. I guess that is OEM and this is after market - I haven't a clue. I just know this Denso 234-9005 worked on my car.TIP: If anything the task I spent the most time on was disconnecting the electrical connector from the socket on the car. It turns out that the clasp that holds the connector in place is on the underside of the socket. However by gently fiddling around I realised that there is a clasp on the top that removes the whole socket and connector from the car. You then turn the thing around and now its really easy to disconnect the connector from the socket. Just be patient and work slowly make sure you have ample of light and PLEASE make sure you are doing this work when the car has completely cooled down or else you are sure to get burned if you are amateur like me..:)

Engine light came on on my dash, so I purchased an OBD2 code reader to see what the trouble was. It showed two codes: P0134 and P0135. I purchased a mechanic's manual for my vehicle to see what the troubleshooting procedure was for those codes. My car was definitely running poorly, bad gas mileage, exhaust smelled like gunpowder, and car was idling funny at traffic lights. I determined the heated oxygen sensor needed to be replaced - my car has almost 200,000 miles on it and has never had the sensors replaced. I purchased this Denso 234-9005 sensor for my '04 Honda CRV from amazon after doing a bunch of research to make sure it was the right one. Iit was ton's cheaper than going to the Honda dealership (quoted around $350 there for the same part). In my research it appears that the Denso is the OEM part for Honda. Also purchased the socket drive rachet attachment tool that was recommended. When the parts arrived I did the replacement myself - girl power!!! Ladies, it was easy. You have to get under the vehicle, but you don't need to raise the vehicle, and it is very easy to get to (You Tube videos are a huge help). I didn't drive the car for several days before the repair so it would be nice and cold. I sprayed the old sensor with WD-40 the day before and let it soak. Gave it another spray a few hours before attempting the repair. It took a decent coaxing to get the old one off, but was easy enough. The sensor came with lube for the threads and really was a cinch to put in. The hardest part of it all was figuring out how to unplug the other end from the outlet. You must remove the screw that holds the assembly in place and then on the backside there was a place that had to be pressed in for the thing to release and slide apart. Once you get the old sensor unplugged it is super easy to plug the new one in and attach the assembly back into place with the screw. 15 minute repair. After the repair, I took the car for a drive down a nearby highway. Got up to 60mph and kept it there for a few minutes, then let off the gas and let the car coast for a minute or so. Turned around and did a bit of city driving, stopping at stop lights and such. Came home, parked, and then in about half hour drove to the grocery store and on the way home my Engine light went off. Yay!!!!! Car is ready for inspection!!! Just to make sure the codes were cleared, I plugged my OBD2 code reader back in and rescanned. It showed NO CODES!