SAMSUNG 55 Inch Class Neo QLED 4K QN90B Series Mini LED Quantum HDR 32x Dolby Atmos Anti-Glare,Ultra Viewing Angle Smart TV 2022 - International Version

I've been using a Sony Bravia for years (1080p/i) standard hi-def as a display, also using a Yamaha RX-V371 Audio Video receiver, which I loved and it served me faithfully since 2017...a refurbished unit I bought on faith for just 135$, along with a full set of Polk surrounds and I'm not sure who made the woofer. I decided to upgrade to Ultra High Def and so I began by replacing the heart of the system, the AVR, with a Yamaha RX-V4A. I had no desire to add more speakers to my setup for Dolby Atmos sound, so the RX-V4A fit my requirements just fine. I had such a good and reliable experience with the RX-V371 that I knew I wanted another Yamaha.Then I began to search for a TV. It came down to OLED vs QLED, plus, it had to fit on my TV table. So many sets have legs out at the ends of the screen that they would not fit and were automatically disregarded. Two things made me want to buy the QLED over the OLED: burn-in, and the brightness of the screen. High Dynamic Resolution uses brightness as one of its features, and I wanted a good HDR experience, plus the ratings on Consumer Reports had this in the recommended category. The smaller width base would also fit on my TV table with no problems. HDR10, HLG, and HDR10+ but no Dolby Vision! I did more reading and decided that since all TVs will have HDR10, this would be OK.I had a 4K Firestick already, and bought a Roku 4K unit and a Panasonic UHD blu ray player, along with Planet Earth II. Another fun fact was that Amazon Prime originals are almost all coded with HDR10+. Using calibration settings also supplied on the Consumer Reports site, the picture is simply spectacular. I am very pleased with this unit. The only problem I do have is that the HDMI-CEC will not turn on the TV from any peripheral devices. It will turn off, it will control volume from all controllers, but it will not turn on! Still working on that one and it is not that big of a deal. All my peripherals are connected to the AVR so I have only one 2.1 HDMI cable going out from the AVR arc port to the ARC port on the TV. I'm not bound to the Samsung confusion from their smart TV offerings because of this and usually press the power button on the RX-V4A and the TV button on my Tivo remote to get things going. I rarely use the Samsung remote and leave it solar-panel side up under a lamp in the room. In time I will experiment with the Samsung smart TV offerings and being a Tennis fan I have already found the T2 channel on the Samsung TV Plus. I still have a lot to learn about this TV but so far so good. I don't have any buyer's remorse. 1080/i programming just looks great, too, and UHD or not, the picture is so much better because the blacks are really black so everything looks better.

This is my 3rd 4k tv. The 4k picture on the others (Sony) was way too dark. Why I bought a second Sony, I have no idea. Did my research on brightness and nits and got to this Samsung. The brightness for 4k is more than adequate, although sometimes the whites seem too bright. In order to get a good picture, you have to turn off their ambient light control. That's absolutely the first thing you should do. If you don't, you're not going to be impressed with the picture.Several negatives:The remote is horrible. It's tiny. No backlighting. Have to turn on the lights and look carefully for what you want to hit. Not a lot of buttons either. Trying to do anything on the remote is an ordeal.The interface needs much improvement. Most of what I watch on tv is with my satellite service. Once you hit the Home button on the remote, you may never get back to your regular TV programming. They seem to be discouraging me from watching my satellite programming, as though they want me to use their Samsung Plus service or whatever it’s called. There’s no easy way to get back to my regular tv programming. There should be a button for that on the remote. A couple of times, I’ve just turned off the TV and started over again.Very difficult (if not impossible) trying to connect devices to this. They have their app called "Easy Connection,” which you install on your PC. Easy Connection has been anything but easy. It's a huge headache. I kinda knew it was going to be a problem when they required an unusually complicated password as though world peace were hanging in the balance. Who would waste time trying to hack into a tv? And even if they did, what are they going to get when they don't have any passwords for finances or things that matter? I knew for sure the "Easy Connection" experience was going to be bad when they couldn’t even express in plain English what their password requirements are. By trial and error, I eventually figured out what they were trying to say. But that only got the app up and running. That all took about an hour. I still haven’t been able to get the tv to recognize the PC.There is NO displayport connection on the back. Four HDMI ports. The video card in my PC is an Nvidia 3070 with only one HDMI port. The other three are, of course, DisplayPort, which is what you would normally want if you're trying to do good 4K. This 4K tv doesn't even have one Displayport connection. So I need to order a Displayport/HDMI adapter. Hope I get an adapter that works.Because I've spent three hours today trying to connect my PC to this tv with their “Easy Connection” app,” it gets1 star.

Not worth the $ - First and foremost, there's a disgusting obvious halo effect around anything white against a dark background. 2nd, when not even on, the reflection off the TV screen is not your typical dull/shaded but rather a prize that distorts and reflects any lighting making you take a double look as if something is wrong. Almost as if you're looking into a mirror that really is a 1 way viewing window at a prison cell. I'd hesitate to pay half of what I did had I known these annoying af features. Also often times will give me "check power source" as I try to hook it up as an external monitor or TV to game on, incapable of detecting the source. Must fiddle fart with it every time. TVs back in the 1990s were more reliable

Sometimes the TV’s back lighting doesn’t come on on when the TV is turned on leaving the screen Black.The only way to fix it is to unplug and reboot. That sucks being that it a brand new TV.The picture however is great.

Samsung makes a handsome television, they have for a long time. This image technology looks great, even the built in sound is decent (get a sound bar though). The remote control that comes with the TV is dismal, Samsung removed most obvious functionality but added highly sensitive buttons for premium streaming services instead of something more useable. When I say overly sensitive I mean you can be watching a show and have the remote on the couch; without touching the remote but adjusting your seating position; it might switch to Disney plus or other...completely disconnecting what your watching.Lastly, I use ARC audio through the HDMI connection on the set. There is an excellent chance that when the TV turns on, it will have no audio. This is nothing that anyone has done, its the set. I have to go to another source (in this case an attached USB drive) play a video or audio file; audio comes on, switch back to where I was (Roku) and the audio plays....it has nothing to do with volume settings, its an HDMI ARC audio issue.